it was a rather overcast day today. the sun did not show until about noon. waves are rough for bursts and completely still for spans of 15 minutes or more. the current pushed north at a quite alarmingly fast yet deceptive rate. water was cold but if you paddled enough, it’d warm you up. though at times, you could swim through a suspicious warm flow of water. it was the perfect day to go out to surf without getting darker…
…i’m dark enough as is..
when we first paddled out, doug and i were treated to a pod of dolphins swimming between us. there must’ve been at least 8 or 10 of them. they all swam in pairs. it’s quite amazing how close you can get to them… it’s to the point of if you jumped at them, you could probably touch them. some of them had some scratched up fins though.
anyways.. i still feel the ocean. my head feels like it’s swaying back and forth. doug told me he saw a surfing movie where the surfer would jump on his board instead of paddling out. so i tried that and my board slipped from under me and i faceplanted into it. it was quite painful….
i tried it again coming out of the water and the water was shallow and i hit dirt when i fell off. i’ll try it again next time. i guess this week of not surfing next week will allow me to recover somewhat. my knees are totally banged and bruised. at one point my left calf cramped up when i was out there. that’s not the greatest feeling in the world…
you gotta see my swimsuit tan. it’s very.. defined .. hahahah
well.. my first week off has been good. safe from serious injury yet fun. i don’t know if i can wait till next week to surf again.
over at andy’s xanga, he talks about something that happened to him the other day. it was about coincidences.. and how they’re really not. God truly is amazing when you think about it sometimes.