the waves were unusual last sunday. they were long waves that would sometimes suddenly wall up. anyways.. on the first wave i caught.. i was struggling to get up. when i got to my knees, my board suddenly shot up in the air. and i, in turn shot up with my board.. and for a brief moment…
woooOOOooo! i was flying through the air.
my arms flailed in the air… mike said he heard me yelp. honestly.. i’m sure it didn’t last more than a brief moment… but it was the most awesome feeling.
coming back down… i landed back on my board on my knees. i was able to get on my feet and ride it for brief moment more..
on what i made the last wave of the day, i was trying to catch a wave. in the last second it walled up on me. now.. if you’ve never surfed before.. i’m sure you don’t know the experience of looking down from the top of a wave right before it breaks. it’s.. quite a scary thing.. well.. i was looking down, and i went over the top.. and dropped headfirst more than a couple feet onto my board… headfirst.
at that point i was swept up by the wave.. and i became totally disoriented not knowing which way was up. i realize.. whenever i get swept under a wave and it takes longer than i expect to get out of the water, at a certain point, i struggle with my fate. will i find the surface? will i die here today?…
i came out of the water after that. when i first came out, i thought there was a patch of seawead stuck on my board. i later came to realize it was a patch of my hair. i wish i had a camera at the time. now the only remnants is a pressure dent from my head…
sunday was the most fun surfing i’ve had in a while..
saturday was the first time we used the new sound system for praise. i must thank mr. hong for everything. he’s put so much work into it. and it’s amazing what he can do with wire and pliers. just incredible.
i thought praise sounded awesome too
on friday night, the power shorted during practice so we had practice a capella. it was the first time in a long time i heard vivian sing. it made me realize why i wanted her in the praise team when i first started. if only she’d sing like that with a mic.