it was a rather overcast day today. the sun did not show until about noon. waves are rough for bursts and completely still for spans of 15 minutes or more. the current pushed north at a quite alarmingly fast yet deceptive rate. water was cold but if you paddled enough, it’d warm you up. though at times, you could swim through a suspicious warm flow of water. it was the perfect day to go out to surf without getting darker…

…i’m dark enough as is..

when we first paddled out, doug and i were treated to a pod of dolphins swimming between us. there must’ve been at least 8 or 10 of them. they all swam in pairs. it’s quite amazing how close you can get to them… it’s to the point of if you jumped at them, you could probably touch them. some of them had some scratched up fins though.

anyways.. i still feel the ocean. my head feels like it’s swaying back and forth. doug told me he saw a surfing movie where the surfer would jump on his board instead of paddling out. so i tried that and my board slipped from under me and i faceplanted into it. it was quite painful….

i tried it again coming out of the water and the water was shallow and i hit dirt when i fell off. i’ll try it again next time. i guess this week of not surfing next week will allow me to recover somewhat. my knees are totally banged and bruised. at one point my left calf cramped up when i was out there. that’s not the greatest feeling in the world…

you gotta see my swimsuit tan. it’s very.. defined .. hahahah

well.. my first week off has been good. safe from serious injury yet fun. i don’t know if i can wait till next week to surf again.

over at andy’s xanga, he talks about something that happened to him the other day. it was about coincidences.. and how they’re really not. God truly is amazing when you think about it sometimes.

you know.. i saw bourne supremacy the other day.. saturday night. and it was by far the worst camera job i’ve ever seen.. they give you that feel you get when you watch 24 on fox where they move the camera back and forth like you’re there and drunk.. but bourne supremacy over does it.. i still have a headache from watching it. they say that the car chase scene is one of the best but the movie didn’t keep me entertained enough to watch it.. terrible movie

i just came back from watching king arthur… (i go through movie bursts) it was alright. i thought the performance of arthur wasn’t that great. and i thought gweneviere(sp?) was too dirty? i won’t spoil the movie.. but yah.. only a couple cheesy scenes. battle scenes weren’t spectacular. not much character development. but it wasn’t bad.

i thought spiderman was pretty great. i seem to love all those comic book come to life movies.. though catwoman does not appeal to me at all. i think they did a bad job of advertising it.

i want to see.. the village. preferrably before i go to puc… so i get freaked out whenever i walk on those paths at night…

going surfing tomorrow

and friday

i’ve gone 4 times with my board. just 12 more times and i start saving money because of it. i’ve only had it one week. o.. i went to huntington beach on tuesday.. that’s where they’re having that surfing competition. waves were kinda small. not really any cool tricks.. just up and down the wave. something i can’t do.. but doesn’t seem to spectacular to me.. but it does motivate me to try harder. i got up for the first time on tuesday. i’m starting to really get a good feel for my board.

if you ever want to get me anything, i’ll make it really easy. buy me something for my car, my guitar or surfing. you probably can’t go wrong with anything there. i’m pretty picky about my computer stuff.

just recap

we won our softball game.  the first time the team has won.  funny thing is pj wasn’t there to enjoy it.  he couldn’t play because of some stomach problem?..  so he still hasn’t won a game in 3 years.. hehe

praise was terrible last weekend… we tried to sing this one song.. and it turned out horribly.  *shake head.. sometimes.. it just kills me.

i think i got sunburn for the first time yesterday while surfing.  my back feels pretty bad right now.  i didn’t wake up early enough to go surfing today… i met up with sarah late last night.  i suppose i still could go… but i already plan on going every other day this week.  so.. maybe i’ll take it easy.  i think my body needs the rest anyways.  i’ll probably just go work out today.

of course all this working out and surfing leads to nothing except me getting darker and more poor.   i see/feel no change…  i guess the late nights eating ice cream shakes doesn’t help either…

to do list

1. surf
2. call churches
3. surf
4. go to my grandparents
5. surf
6. clean my car
7. surf
8. workout
9. surf
10. pay for classes
11. surf
12. give my car an oil change
13. surf

btw.. i don’t particularly like the song, pieces of me by ashlee simpson… her voice is.. really weird to me. 

they’re like 2 goofy little chubby men

 

i got the board today.. picked it up at 6:45 at the 76 gas station in front of usc medical… next to church.  then went over to my brother’s house, waxed it and went surfing with jay.  the board is a beaut.  i bought a leash for it for 20 bucks.  i think the people at bruce jones recognize me now..

 

i think i’m going out on friday again.. and anytime i can next week.. then there’s puc campmeeting then i have another 2 weeks of free time…

 

i also received my computer parts yesterday.  the ps seems to be working really well.  my rails are higher than they’ve ever been.  i’m not sure about my fan.  i stay at about.. 42 degrees.  but for some reason.. when my screen saver kicks in.. it jumps to 57 or so.  which is.. hot.

 

it’s hot today.. it’s making me drowsy.. i think i’m going to take a nap

do you see that board —>

 

it’s mine.

 

timeToIMtim: 20 seconds

timeToIMtim: o crap

timeToIMtim: i won it

Jap in the gap: hahahahhaha

Jap in the gap: i love that reaction. “oh crap, i won.”

 

first non-”buy it now” buy i’ve won.

most money i’ve spent of my own money at one spot

 

well.. yah..

 

still working on my website changes..

jap in the gap: i think you change your layout more often than i change my underwear. 

still waiting on my computer parts

 

i was the reason we lost the softball game today