i know it’s been a long time since i’ve posted. i haven’t really found much to post about. all i’ve pretty much been doing these days is surf. since last wednesday… i’ve surfed wednesday, friday, saturday, sunday, monday, wednesday, thursday. the week before was puc. but somewhere in the middle God decided it’s time for some play time and he decided to send some big waves. someone told me at sunset beach, the surf was at 7 feet! that’s insane. that’s double what it’s usually at.
on monday, i went to san onofre down next to the dolly parton nuclear refinery down the 5 almost in sd. man.. the waves go for so long there. and they’re so easy to ride. i stayed there for… 6 hours? caught 3 waves. but the waves i caught.. man.. you just go forever. but i became dead sick on tuesday. couldn’t move around.. didn’t want to move around.. by wednesday i was back surfing..
this morning though.. i had no strength. and i still pretty much have no strength.. i think this fever’s really draining me.
i’m getting so dark.
conversation on tuesday while out on the water
me – man, i can’t catch anything
man – you look like you’re pretty good
me – nah, i just started a couple months ago
man – o, really…. you look like an islander.
the contrast between my back and my butt is alarming.
on.. wednesday, gloria’s mom commented that i looked like i had lost some weight. ever since i started working out more routinely and started surfing, i’ve gained 8 pounds. so it doesn’t really make sense to me… can anyone tell a difference? probably not.
today.. i bought a bottle of coke for 1.50 at the vending machine next to albertsons. it took the last money i had.. so i went to the bank inside the albertsons down the street. (yes.. there’s 2 albertsons within a block of each other). and a coke there was a buck 50 too. i went inside.. and bought a 2 liter for 79 cents. does this not make sense only to me?
if i remember correctly a drink at ucla is only a buck.
so.. the next thing i want to buy is a digital camera. i think i’m leaning toward the casio exilim ex-z40. it just went under 300 bucks. i’m also contemplating the minolta z2. it’s an slr-type camera. i’ve already bought sd memory for it. 256 for only 24 bucks. it was so cheap, i had to buy it.
after that.. my next big buy i think will be a surfboard rack for my car for about 280. yah.. i’m totally getting too much into this. i find myself wanting to buy surf brand clothes and i go to surfline.com constantly. i think i should get a new fin… it’s still not as an expensive hobby as snowboarding i don’t think.
i took off the wax on my board today… and i found something on it. it’s something i didn’t notice when i first got it ’cause i waxed it almost immediately. but it says..
it’s like.. the red violin.. i kinda wanna.. know the history of this board. i did a google on the name.. a lot of names popped up. hehe. and since this was sold decades ago.. well.. when was the internet made?
well that’s pretty much what i’ve been doing the last couple weeks. puc totally drained me.. and i think with all the surfing.. i still haven’t really recovered yet.. i’m perpetually tired. but.. i have to enjoy the summer when i can, right? i hope you’re enjoying your summer too